Peter's Bonsai Blog
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Display Tables These notes explain some of the “rules” relating to the use of display tables. I have deliberately excluded any reference to Scrolls and Accent plants as they will form the subject of a future article. So why do we use tables or plinths to display our bonsai ? Raising the height of the tree is only a part of the answer, as the display table forms a part of the overall composition. It is therefore important that we consider the size, shape, and colour of the table to be used when creating our display. One of the reasons frequently given for using tables, is that a table helps to raise the tree to a more appropriate viewing height, and we are often told that a tree should be positioned so that it is viewed at eye level. Perhaps more correctly this should read;- the tree should be placed such that, a point two thirds up the overall height of the tree, should be at the viewers eye level. This undoubtedly gives the best height from which to view the tree, but cannot reflect that fact that people come in all shapes and sizes. In Japan, trees which are displayed in a tokanoma, are intended to be viewed from a seated position, (I.E.... sitting on the floor), whereas at a major exhibition the trees are displayed on benches. The benches are all the same height regardless of the size and height of the tree. Using a table to adjust the height is therefore important but it is only a part of the answer. Many of the major exhibitions offer prizes for the best tree and pot combination, and yet there is seldom any mention of the tables or plinths being used. We often talk about a bonsai display as a composition, in which all the elements combine to form an aesthetically pleasing, balanced and harmonious display. A quick look at the photographs of the displays at any of the major exhibitions will quickly demonstrate that some trees are displayed on tables which are to big, or to small; or are visually to heavy, or to light, for the trees placed upon them. The following tables are to small for the trees they are carrying:-
Visual Weight .................. When describing the depth and shape of a pot, some people refer to the “visual weight” of the pot in relation the height of the tree and the thickness of the trunk. It seems to me that the “visual weight” of the table is an equally important part of the composition. I am sure we have all looked at a bonsai display and instinctively felt that the composition was wrong for some reason, even if we couldn't explain why. Many people will suggest that the table / stand being used is inappropriate for the tree, because it is to heavy or to light, or sometimes because the table top appears to be floating”, but I haven’t been able to find any guidance as to what is appropriate. These notes therefore give my interpretation of the elements of the tables’ design that we should be thinking about, when choosing the table to be used for displaying our trees? The following tables don't have enough visual weight:- Whilst I accept that the interpretation of any composition; what we like or dislike, is a matter of personal taste, I do think that there should be a number of broad principles or guidelines that we should adhere to. However, it also seems to me, that the guidelines will be different for each style and size of tree. Those relevant to a cascade, or a shohin, would obviously be different from those that apply to a heavy trunk Trident Maple or Pine. The majority of my trees are in the informal upright style about 60cm high, and so I have concentrated on how I would prefer to display this style of tree. Other people may like to suggest some guidelines for other styles or sizes of tree.
I prefer to see trees of this size and style, exhibited on tables that appear to have a connection with or are “growing” out of the display bench. Creating a pyramid shape with a series of steps between the bench, the table, the pot, and the Nebari all rising up to support the trunk of the tree, works for me. Wooden slabs ......................
Using a slab or a wooden plinth works well, but if you choose to use a table, the visual weight of the table is the key to creating a harmonious display. Square tables seem to work better with round pots; rectangular tables with rectangular or oval pots. The width of the table relative to the size of the pot is also important. Having a clear area between both sides of the pot and the sides of the table helps to balance the image. Somewhere between 1- 2 times the dept of the pot seems to work well. The following examples are approximately the right width, but don't have enough visual weight:-
Other important issues are the depth of the top, the depth of the apron, and the detail at the edge of the table. These all have to be considered together, as they make a significant contribution to the visual weight of the table. Having an overhanging edge and a shallow apron creates a visual separation between the legs and the pot and gives the impression that the tree is “floating”. I find this disturbing. For this size and style of tree, a large overhang should be avoided. As I mentioned, having a series of steps works better. Apron Details .............
The amount of detail on the apron is important, but please remember that the purpose of the table is to support and help frame the tree, not to dominate or detract from it. The table is a part of the overall image, not the focal point. In my opinion a simple, understated apron, with clean simple lines is best. Complicated, ornate and fussy detailing should be avoided.
Legs .............. The table legs and / or feet need to be strong enough to carry both the physical and visual weight of the tree being displayed. However, the design and shape of the legs; whether they turn in or out, is a matter of personal choice. I prefer having legs that turn out and project beyond the overhang, as they give the impression of having enough strength to support the physical and visual weight of the pot and the tree. Having legs which turn in, creates the impression of an inverted pyramid, which I think looks unstable. Having a flush edge reduces the impression of instability, but personally I think that all tables with inward turning legs look disturbing. I should stress that all of the elements referred to, must be considered together and not in isolation. Creating a homonymous, balanced image, is a matter of personal taste, but I think that having some generally accepted “guidelines” would help us all improve the quality of our displays. What do you think? Your comments would be much appreciated. Is anyone else prepared to stick their neck out and suggest some guidelines for displaying another size or style of tree? I decided to make some display tables of my own, to help my understanding of the conclusions I had been coming to. The design was inevitably limited by my poor carpentry skills, and the tools and materials available, however, I am quite please with the results. The following images show the importance of having a table with the right visual weight. Some of these images work, some do not. I think options 5 & 6 work best. 1 4 In the images below, options, 1, 3 and 4 work ok, but I feel that option 2 seems to be more balanced. In option 5, the table is clearly to small. What do you think? Your comments would be appreciated. 1 4 The following images all show the correct balance;-
Click here for the next bonsai tip If you would you are not clear on any of the points made or would like assistance in any other aspect of the hobby please contact me and I shall be pleased to help. Peter Thorne Tel:01294 273085 |
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