|
This Squamata Meyeri Juniper was purchased
in 2008.
This is the story of it's
journey from a shrub, to a bonsai and beyond.......
|
This is the tree as seen in the
nursery April 2008. It is approximatly 1.3m
tall.
|
The tree has tremendous trunk and root flare
|
|
|
After the initial chop
|
After the initial styling and creating some
deadwood
|
|
|
|
This is the tree after repotting in March 2009
|
and in June
2010
|
|
The images below show how a
new crown is being created on the tree.....
|
|
From the front you can see that a
side branch has been wrapped with tape, wired and then bent up to form the new
crown
|
From the rear you can see that the
original
trunk has been cut to reduce the height of the tree, and that a metal bar is used to temporarily
secure the branch on its new position
|
|
|
By February 2011 after just one growing season) the temporary support can be
removed. Seen from the front, the steel and rubber protection have been removed,
and the cut has been trimmed to create the appropriate amount of taper in the
trunk.
|
|
Seen from the rear the temporary steel has been removed , the cut area has
been trimed and the wound painted over.
|
|
|
The tree is now starting to look like the original computer image
|
|
|
|
|
The tree in February 2011
|
The CGI in May 2009
|
|
The next stage is to let the crown grow and fill out a
bit. |
|
How to create dense foliage close to the
trunk.
With this variety of juniper, the
needles close to the trunk will die back naturally ( they usually turn brown in
colour). When they do you need to remove them with tweezers. The technique
used to create denser foliage close to the trunk is to allow the growing tips
on the branch to extend, and then cut them back (cut them, don't pinch them).
This action coupled with the removal of the dead inner needles will encourage
back budding close to the trunk as shown.
|
|
|
In April 2011, I purchased a new pot for the tree - within
24 hours the tree was repotted. The following images show
that it had developed a good root system during the yast 2 years..
|
|
|
|
|
The tree in
its new pot 11th April 2011
|
By
October the tree has filled out a bit and I've lowered the branch
on the right hand side.
|
|
|
|
|
|
By
May of 2013 the tree had become unwell. At this time
I'd had this tree in a pot for about 5 years; I have repotted it twice in
that time. It positively thrived after the last repot. Indeed it was so vigorous
that I thinned out the foliage after Ayr Flower show in August 2012. Its been in a
steady decline ever since. I recall that another of our members lost a Squamata
the year before in similar circumstances. This is a variety that seems to thrive
in this part of the world. I see them in gardens all over the
West coast of Scotland, but never showing this type of problem. Perhaps
it may be something to do with the fact that its in a pot, although I know Rob
Atkinson has had one as a bonsai for many years without any problems.
Some
better pictures of the damaged foliage
Having listened to various advice, I decided that I needed to re-pot the tree. This
was in late May 2013, much later than I would have choosen to repot
a tree.
As you
can see it looks like a reasonably free draining mix.
However,
when I
got the tree out, I found that the material had broken down and was compacted,
although it seemed to be draining OK. The root certainly filled the pot but not to
the extent that I would call root bound as I have seen with other trees. The
root ball was moist, but not wet, there were no signs of root rot, Vine weevil
or any other bugs, but nor any new growth , I.E. no white tips on the roots. I
felt that the Akadama had broken down a bit and you can see below that the fine
material was accumulating at the base of the pot. Over the last few years, I
have been in the habit of not using a separate drainage layer in the bottom of
the pot, and the results of that are clearly shown in this picture Having
raked out the roots and removed as much of the fine material as I dared, I
decided to replant the tree into a larger Mica pot.
|
|
I put in a drainage layer of large horticultural grit, and when the tree had
been bedded and tied into the pot, I sprinkled a layer of Mycorrhizal fungi onto
the exposed roots. I used a proprietary product called “Rootgrow”, followed by a
mix of 33% Akadama, 30% cat litter, and 30% EZO grit.
|
|
The image below shows how much coarser and free draining
the mix is.
|
|
The picture below shows the tree in its new pot and soil mix.
I think
the size of the pot is much more in proportion.
|
|
I also sprayed the tree with a systemic fungicide called
Systhane.This product is said to control a wide range of fungal diseases including black spot, powdery
mildew, rust and scab. The tree was then left to recover............................and
to my surprise it did ! Almost every tip that had died
back, produced a new shoot and by christmas 2013 the tree was ready
for styling again.
|
|
The saga continues.......... In March 2014 I noticed that
the tree was again unwell.......exactly the same symtoms as before.
I treated it with Systhane and keep my fingers
crossed, but unfortunately it died, and I have no idea why.
I have cared for and nurtured this tree for 6 years. It
has brought me a lot of pleasure, and I have learnt a lot working
on it. It initially cost me £150. The work
I did significantly increased the value,........ but now its worth
nothing. It seems to happen to all of us. It's just a part
of the hobby.
Squamata Meyeri .... RIP.
|
Return to
Top
|